Bob-Kats on the Road 02-23-12

Hawaii Vol 3 - Volcanoes National Park

Since the park is 70 miles from our house in Waimea over a somewhat challenging road, we decided to find a place to stay in Volcano Village.  This is the wet side of the island, so you can expect clouds, rain and dense, verdant jungle.  Below are pics of our little house, very much in the jungle.

We had planned to be there for a few days.  A few days is about a day too long as it turned out.  Only half the park is open, the rest being closed due to … volcanoes.  Surprise.  They are not exactly erupting at the moment.  The one vent that was sending lava into the sea became inactive a week before we arrived.  I expect it to become active any moment now that we are gone.  No volcano luck, I guess.

Of the 333,000 acres of the park, roughly half is closed, but what remains is just packed with beauty and wondrous things.  There is a lake of lava beneath the largest caldera and while it is not liquid at the moment, it is hot and is producing the sulfurous steam that is coming from the Halemaumau vent.

Quite a spectacle to see and with the  spectacle, 9 million tonnes of sulfur dioxide per day.  It is also what is producing the smaller steam vents seen below when rain falls down into the cracks in the earth’s surface and hits the lava lake.

The area immediately above the lava lake is too warm for trees to grow, but the unusual plants are happy in their open-air hot-house environment.

Crater Rim Drive is closed at about the halfway mark, so a little backtracking, and you are at Thurston lava tubes.  Discovered in 1913 by Lorin Thurston (clearly a relative of mine) they are the plumbing, so to speak, through which lava flowed.  That is hardly a complete explanation, but will give you something to visualize.  We were advised by a volunteer at the visitor center to hike to the tubes rather than drive and deal with hordes of tour buses.  Yes, indeed.  When going to Volcanoes National Park, it’s a good idea to check when the big cruise ships come into port.  Just assume they hold around 4,000 people and that a majority of them are going to want to see the volcanoes.  Yikes.

So, we  hiked the 2.5 miles through the rainforest.  It was like stepping back into  prehistoric times with the happu tree ferns in the understory and the native ohia lehua trees 80 feet above.

We were soon joined by a family of Kalij pheasants.  I was momentarily amazed at our luck in finding them until I realized that they had in fact found us and were hoping to trade a photo op for a treat -- either that or the male just loved having his picture taken – he was happy to pose left, right, on the ground, in a tree …

After a pleasant – if somewhat long – walk, we arrived at the lava tubes.   They were amazing.

Time for lunch.  A picnic on Hilina Pali Road, a breathtaking place.

Lava Love
I became fascinated by lava.  Not sure why, but I loved it in all its varieties of texture, shape and color.   A trip along Chain of Craters Road and we had to stop and look many times.

Pahoehoe Lava – Thin and smooth

A’a lava – Thick and chunky like a plowed field

Ropey pahoehoe Lava

Hornito lava sculptures

And then we were at the ocean.  Thick lava cliffs – spectacular!

We continued down the road to the final drop to sea level and then curve to the left at the ocean.   The road was overrun by lava at about 19.3 mile mark in early 2004.

A good place to stop!

One more must-do:  Whales

The humpbacks are in Hawaii for the winter to have their calves and mate again.  They do not eat until they return to the cold waters of the north.  We are not group-activity people usually, but a whale-watching trip seemed like something we must do.  As you can see from the pictures, we probably needn’t have gone to the expense as they were perfectly visible from shore.  But it was neat to be close enough to hear them blow.

Our Whale Watch Boat

Spinner Dolfins

Great Scenery

Great time on Whale Watch Boat

Night Manta Ray Dive

And last, pictures from my exciting night manta ray dive!

Time to suit-up and . . .

Ship out!














What?  You don’t see any mantas?  Well, neither did I!!  Not being circus animals that put in  mandatory appearances, they apparently were sulking somewhere else.  So, in the cold dark water in a pretty good chop hanging on to a surf board for 45 minutes and nada!

The boat returns 5 hours later . . .

Bob had decided that getting into the ocean at night to wait for something big to show up was not his deal and wisely spent the time at a sports bar.

Bob-Kats on the Road 02-10-12

Hawaii  Vol 2  -  Waipi’o and Mauna Kea

We’ve left Hawaii.  Our month is up.  I know you all are feeling our pain.

What a place.  A place of contrasts – barren volcanic rock, dry, windblown plains and rain forests that are – well, really wet!  It’s a place of small wonders and spectacular vistas.  No favorites, I loved them all.  A look at a few of them:

Waipi’o Valley

On the northern side of the island, it was formed when a huge chunk of volcanic rock split off into the sea.  It must have been quite an event.  The cliffs soar 2,000 feet over a mile of black sand beach.

The valley can only be reached on foot or with four-wheel drive.  It’s a white-knuckle ride down a narrow nearly vertical road.  The downhill driver must yield to the uphill car and it is a breathless moment when you pass.

About 25 families live in the valley.  Taro was traditionally grown and there is still a small, but determined business.  The road is rough and watery and there is no need to fence the horses.

Some interesting signs.

And – wow – a rainbow eucalypts, the most beautiful of all the 90 or so eucalypts that were planted in Hawaii.

You back-track to the beach past burial sites of the Hawaiians that first live here.  The beach is amazing.  The black sand has a sparkle in the sun and a silky feel to it from the lava that comprises it.

Waipi’o was not far from Waimea and we went now and then, although twice was enough on that road down.  The cute little town of Honoka’a was nearby and it was a favorite of ours.

Mauna Kea

This is a must see, of course.  Must see, must go, just do it.

Mauna Kea from our house

Mauna Kea is the tallest mountain in the world …  that is, if you start measuring from the base, which sits on the ocean floor.  The part above the water rises 13,796 feet.  I doubt if anyone outside Hawaii thinks of it as the mountain that is taller than Everest.  And you can drive a jeep to the top, so there are not really any stories of drama and daring coming out of that.

Still, it is a respectable height and you will feel it!  Five miles of the 15 mile climb up are unaccountably unpaved and a teeth-chattering, bone-jarring washboard of a road.  It is an extremely long five miles.  But the scenery makes up for it.

The air has increasingly less oxygen in it as you go up.  At the top, there is 40% percent less oxygen.  A mini hike around left me short of breath and happy to get back in the car.  There is no life up here.  Well, unless you count the tiny insect that relies on wind to bring it insect prey from below.  Seems an iffy life to me.  There are no plants or trees, only red lava rocks.  And wind.  Temperatures in the winter average -4 at night.  They close the road to all vehicles if the wind exceeds 60 MPH.  The ranger explained that even if you can get a car door open, you will not be likely to close it again.  Winds can be 100 MPH.  There are areas near the top that have had an actual ice age.

And what then is up here?  One of the largest and most important observatories in the world.  There are 13 telescopes operated by 11 countries.  They include the largest optical/infrared telescopes in the world, the Keck scopes.  Keck maintains a large office complex in Waimea.  There is a visitor center there that is open to the public, but this is a serious operation up on the mountain and you are not going to kip into one of the observatories for a look in a telescope.  There are about 10,000 professional astronomers worldwide and most, if not all, would like time on Mauna Kea.  A year-long competitive application process gets the most worthy of them a few days or perhaps a week.

The top is closed to visitors after dark – when the astronomers arrive – but you are allowed to remain for sunset, an unforgettable experience.

The volcanos next.

PS

Living in the tropics

The rental agent had compiled a binder for the house and prominent in it was the reminder that “you are now living in the tropics” (in case you forgot, I guess) and proceeded to include a detailed list of what you might encounter in the way of creepy things.  I don’t think you need me to read you the list.  But there was one thing that caught my attention.  An unnamed pest with the warning that they often travel in packs.  Beg pardon?  A pest named only “a pest” – in packs?  (I do know that Hawaii had a fairly serious rat problem at one time and imported the mongoose to take care of it.  Unfortunately, they did not consult a zoologist apparently for this plan.  The mongoose is diurnal and sleeps at night.  The rat is nocturnal and sleeps during the day.  They co-exist perfectly.)

So, here we are in the tropics, forewarned.  And I never saw anything for weeks.  It was oddly quiet.  There were no screens upstairs and no flying insects.  Well, we are at 3500 feet.  Maybe that’s it.  In the house, nothing.  Had they dipped the whole place in DDT?

One night I was sitting on the sofa when I chanced to look to the side and there inches away was the longest pair of black needle-like legs protruding from a gauze circlet of spider silk.  I felt their prick and scrape on my neck as I levitated off the sofa.  It was in a hole under the window sill.  Perfect spot.  I do not generally kill things.  Bob offered to get the vacuum.  No, no.  So, I tried.  It was in my thoughts that night, those legs.  I wondered what they were attached to.  Of course, I could avoid the living room.  But then as I came down the stairs and turned, I could feel that prick on my ankle …  BOB!

Shortly after that, I met my first palmetto bug.  That is what someone who is trying to sell you property in Florida calls a cock roach that weighs about two pounds.  It’s a better name, less startling.  One night I thought a little bedtime snack might be nice.  I opened the cupboard door and out skittered an enormous black insect and it had the “ look”.  Palmetto bug, my bippy.  I could have put one under each foot and roller skated.  I retreated.  A full retreat.  And the following day pitched everything in the cupboard.  Might be about ready to go home …